For more than a quarter of a century, the restaurant Chameleon had been a visible, popular presence in the heart of Dublin’s Temple Bar. Having started out serving Indonesian food, it gradually expanded its menu to cover a range of Asian cuisines. It was popular with diners, and within Ireland’s small, yet hyper vocal, army of food writers. Last September, the 50-seater restaurant was a finalist in the readers’ choice category at the Food & Wine Magazine annual awards. Weeks later, it was forced to pull down the shutter for the last time. Kevin O’Toole, a chef who ran the…

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