Fine dining has entered its reformation era and it is looking for a path appropriate to the moment – one where chefs can shine in their own establishments and achieve a modicum of work-life balance. When Noma, the restaurant that modernised fine dining, announced it would close earlier this year it prompted a wave of think pieces and some keening for the end of an era defined by fiddly dishes and French brigade of tweezer-wielding chefs. Making the announcement, Noma’s mercurial head chef Rene Redzepi said the model the three-star Michelin restaurant was built on was no longer sustainable. Noma’s…

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